Thirty Six
The excesses of the previous day hung heavy in the belly but with Santa’s gift on the font of my camera, wind in my hair and sun on my skin it was to the beach I was headed. Boxing day broke an eight week spell off the water and being back on the board was like a cold slap in the face reminding how much I missed it. There really is no place like home especially at Christmas. Except for the beach that is, which even in the middle of winter stirs the soul in way no other place can.
I have photographed this face more than any other and yet it still yields up new expressions that shock and surprise.










